E2 by Raise3D
I have a set off 3dSolex nozzles, sizes i have is 0. So they claim that those nozzle will extrude plastic at lower temps when compared to normal nozzles. So basically it should extrude plastic at higher speed with large nozzles with less stress on the extruder. I will start testing bigger nozzles first. So first up will be a 0.
I will use my N1 with Bondtech extruder for the tests. I am using Simplify3d and one perimeter vase mode. So this tests will only show if you can extrude plastic without issues with large nozzles.
I will use ABS at c for all those tests, ofcourse higher temp will help if you use large nozzels but this is just for some basic knowledge how it works with my standard hotend temp.
Settings 0. No problems at all, layers looks nice and even. Now you can hear extruder have to work abit, but no missed steps. That is becuse to much heat so layers had not enough time to cool down before next layer. I can also see some small blobs on the surface, dont know why really. Test ongoing, will edit post when print is done. Again you can hear the extruder have to work for it abit, but test finshed and layers looks good. One strange is that i cant see any small blobs this time, i wonder why i got those with 1.
So this one is intersting, 2. I had to use c to extrude this. Layers is so wide, 2. Test completed but the layers have a quite rough texture when comparing to all all the other nozzle sizes. Last edited by Trhuster on Mon Aug 22, pm, edited 2 times in total. Using 3dprima Select PLA. Print is tiny and not really good but i can see the potential here, upper part off the bird looks kind off nice.
Theoretically they are stronger prints.Increase Production Flexibility and take advantage of custom manufacturing with Raise3D. Raise3D provides solutions for just about every application from concept to prototype and final production. Discover professional grade materials, technologies and industrial 3D printers that make it easy to make the right choice for your organization.
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We would be very happy to hear from you. Join in and help the 3D community help others even more! Search for:. News Keep up to date with our latest news. View More. Support Center Setup guides, helpful tips, maintenance fixes, and more. Get Help. Open Filament Program Check out other compatible filaments and their manufacturers here.
Learn More. Discover the Pro2 Series from Raise3D! Get printing support or offer your help. Choose your country or region.Topics around mechanical design, controller and electronics. How to adjust the nozzle on the z-axis? Odd behavior for a search engine I think. Anyway, my left nozzle is about. How do I lower the right or raise the left? Also, what height above the printing BuildTak shoudl the nozzles be adjusted to?
Re: How to adjust the nozzle on the z-axis? In the off chance you meant mm, that difference is so small I question the measurement and wouldn't matter anyway.
You ideally want nozzle height within 0. An M4 capscrew facing you at the front of the printer and an M3 setscrew in the side, underneath the fan duct remove the 2 M3s holding the fan and duct. At least for the N1, a 0. Then, remove the coldend fan by unscrewing the two screws circled in red. Then you can pull out the hotend.
Be careful with the heating stick and thermal couple that is attached to the hotend. You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
But I hit the Z home switch to bring the bed up before loosening the screws. I then loosened the screws to allow the hot ends to move freely, and stacked thick feeler gauges between the nozzle tips and bed. Based on just using the feeler gauges, they're within. So basically, I'm letting the gauges level the nozzles. Then tighten them up, better than I can eyeball.
The difference in height is about. I was using inches because that is the only feeler gauge I have. Is this enough of a difference to cause the stepper nozzles to shift to the left a couple of times during a print? I would think not, but I'm running out of things to try to solve the shifting problem. See post at viewtopic. Just tightening the screws will cause some amount of shift.
Furthermore if you're printing from the left, then the right nozzle is more out of the way. If you haven't already started a tech support ticket, I highly recommend it. They've helped me get through a ton of problems. I didn't actually realize I had access to a tech support line. I will do that.Use an 8mm socket wrench to remove the old nozzle from the heating block. Hold the solid section of the heating block during adjustments.
Note1: Please preheat the hot end if there is material sealing the nozzle. Use spatula and tweezer to remove the other material attached in the nozzle or heating block. Insert a cleaning rod completely through the hotend and ensure that tube is completely clear of blockages. Screw the new nozzle into the heating block.
Do not tighten completely. Ensure that there is a visible gap between the nozzle and the heating block. Hold onto the heating block, and tighten the throat tube by rotating the heat sink. The heat sink may be askew when the right position is achieved.
This is normal, and will be adjusted in the latter steps. Check that a gap between the nozzle and the heating block has been maintained. Re-attach the silicone sock, then loosen the fixing screw on the heat sink. Lie the hotend assembly on a flat surface, rotating the heat sink so that the fixing screw is facing outwards.
Move the heat sink down so that it rests on the silicone sock, and tighten into place. If you do not have a silicone sock, adjust the heat sink so that it is flush with the bottom of the large cylinder. To reinstall the hot end assembly into the extruder head, please refer to the instructions in Manual Pro Hotend Replacement. Toggle navigation. Support Center. Nozzle Replacement. First remove the Silicone sock from the hotend. Check that a gap between the nozzle and the heating block has been maintained, 5.
Lie the hotend assembly on a flat surface, rotating the heat sink so that the fixing screw is facing outwards Move the heat sink down so that it rests on the silicone sock, and tighten into place.
Was this article helpful?Note: Room temperature should be about 18C or 65F degrees, if the room temperature is colder please use the lid on your Raise3D Printer. PVA material is sensitive to moisture; the Polybox is used for moisture control.
When using Raise3D PVA you will not need to dry before first use, but if the spool has been left out after printing it will need to be dried out with a Print-dry system. Ensure the feed tube from the Polybox leads into to right side hotend. Note: The tube must be smooth, straight and without kinks or bends. The Polybox should be positioned higher than the printer. Do not load PVA into the left hotend.
Note: Be sure you are running the most current version of ideaMaker. Check the adhesion of first layer printing to verify that the edges have not warped. When the print is about mm tall or after the point at which it should have been printing Raise3D PVA, verify the height of the two filaments are at the same level to ensure PVA has been printing correctly.
Toggle navigation. Support Center. Open ideaMaker B. Close out filament settings and click the Edit button then Advanced. Then close this window.
Print A. Apply PVA glue stick to the print bed surface. Preview: B. Was this article helpful? Please contact our technicians at help. Your search for - -has returned no results. Applications Support Support Center Download.Home the build plate, and set the movement increment to 10mm.
Set both extruders to the proper unloading temperature. The recommend target temperature is typically C higher than its common printing temperature. After the unloading process has completed, remove the filament and filament guide tube from the extruder. In the new window, set the temperatures for both nozzles to 0, and press OK. Allow the components to cool down completely before continuing. When the extruders reach an ambient temperature, power off the printer.
Remove the screws from the cooling fan with a 2. Secure this position by tightening the clamping screw depicted in the photo below. Remove the screws from the right side cooling fan. Push the hot end all the way up until the heat sink touches the collet. R aise the Z limit pin by rotating the bottom screw 1 turn counter clockwise from a top down perspective.
This will allow you to freely reposition the extruder by hand. Move the extruder head along the rods into the center position. Use the feeler gauge included in the printer toolkit and place it underneath the left nozzle. When properly calibrated the feeler gauge should have friction between the bed and nozzle without requiring excessive force. To adjust the nozzle height, rotate the large thumbscrew as depicted in the diagram.
Changes in height will not be visible until after homing. Home the Z-Axis, then verify the new height using the feeler gauge.
Hot End V2H Nozzle (0.2/0.4/0.6/0.8 mm) (N-Series Printer Only)
Homing is required each time the knob is adjusted. Repeat until desired result is achieved. From the home screen, heat the right nozzle to Enable the right nozzle by pressing the icon,then the down arrow.
Once the nozzle is enabled, set the temperatures to 0, and allow them to cool completely before continuing. Once the hotend has cooled completely, Insert the feeler gauge under the right nozzle and check for proper height. If the nozzle needs further adjustments, loosen the setting screw, and manually move the hotend until it is able to come in contact with the feeler gauge.
Toggle navigation. Support Center. Nozzle Height Calibration. Secure this position by tightening the clamping screw. R aise the Z limit pin by rotating the bottom screw 1 turn counter clockwise from a top down perspective Thoughts about Raise3D, 3D printing and making in general. My current settings for 0. How do I tweak the above settings if I were to use a 0. Re: 0. You change the nozzle size to 0.How to: Hotend Removal and Replacement - RaiseAcademy
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post. Changing retract values may not help prevent the ooze. It is a function of the extruder temp and material properties of the filament that determines how much it oozes with larger nozzles. Different plastics have totally different aspects to that function. For example, PLA gets soft before it melts, and stays soft for a long time after it cools.
PLA retains a lot of heat. In the same way, PETG plastic doesn't have a problem extruding at lower temps, but to get maximum layer bond strength, even the manufacturer recommends hotter temps than what you are running.
But truth is, with a big fat 0. You have to find that balance or accept that strings are going to be inevitable with that larger size nozzle. You could retract the filament right out of the extruder and due to the nature of the plastic, it's still going to ooze. Bed at 80, speed between I also use the 0. Jump to. Who is online Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 2 guests.